600 S. Holly St.
Denver, CO 80246
Ambli +

Danielle Lirette

Experience, romance, theatricality: You get these in spades at Ambli. Hospitality, too, which starts with a warm tableside welcome from co-owner Pariza Mehta’s father, a longtime restaurateur who was born in Tanzania, then came to Denver via London and Dallas. But it doesn’t end with him: Servers and runners are equally eager to please, as is the well-traveled menu. Tapas and entrees hop from country to country, continent to continent, a tour that could go very wrong but largely succeeds. Plates are easy to share, with something for everyone, from steak chimichurri flatbreads to Indian vegetarian platters to lobster shooters. While certain sharp-edged flavors have been rounded off (penang beef curry lacks the pungency of fish sauce), the dishes are still respectful. As a result, Ambli is a good-natured crowd-pleaser, the restaurant to choose when you want Indian and your friend wants fish and chips.

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