Mas Kaos

4526 Tennyson St.
Denver, Colorado 80212
720-638-2100
Critics' Pick

Details

  • Monday through Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.
  • Vegetarian Friendly, Kid Friendly, Patio/Sidewalk Dining, Takeout
  • Lunch, Dinner
  • Full bar
  • Street Parking
  • Reservations Accepted
Pizza and tacos don’t normally go together. But isn’t it the American way to experiment and appropriate, borrowing a little of this and a little of that until we end up with something new? And Patrick Mangold-White’s Mas Kaos, with its menu of guacamole and garlic bread, pozole and pesto, tacos and tiramisu, does feel new. Tacos, which often function as appetizers, are pretty little things, dotted with a rainbow of pink pickled onions, yellow pineapple, green cilantro, white cotija. Backing up their style with substance, they offer contrasts in smoke, earthiness, sweetness and acid in every amply filled bite. Carne asada, with skirt steak redolent of garlic and lime, is splendid. So is anything involving the smoker out front, such as chicken, carnitas and barbacoa. As you move to the main course — i.e., pizza — keep in mind that these are not Naples-style pies, despite the kitchen’s claims to the contrary, not with toppings like these, not with such shatter-crisp crusts. Stick with unusual combos, such as the smokestack with poblanos, goat cheese and bacon, the chicken pesto with vinegary roasted tomatoes, or the Hawaiian speckled with pineapple and pulled pork. Mas Kaos, with its indoor-outdoor bar, mezzanine and industrial-chic decor, is a place for serious fun, not serious foodies. The only rules of engagement here are that there are no rules.

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