The Populist was a precursor of the RiNo restaurant boom, and with its subtle signage, it’s still easy to miss. The Populist is not a spotlight-seeker (hell, it’s named for the common man), but every time we eat here, we fall in love anew. Under chef Jonathan Power and owners Noah Price and Cliff White, the Populist continues to turn out some of the best food in the city, paired with one of the best wine lists. Power deftly integrates European, Asian and classic American flavors: In one small-plate session, you may encounter Old Bay seasoning, Tandoori chicken and Swiss raclette. Our favorite way to dine here is to spring for the tasting menu, a playful traipse through seven or eight dishes that really shows the kitchen's range. Also worth knowing: In the warmer months, the Populist has one of the most charming patios in town, secluded under twinkling lights.