To the Wind Bistro

3333 E. Colfax Ave.
Denver, CO 80206
303-316-3333
Critics' Pick
Best Of

Details

  • Tuesday through Thursday 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
  • Dinner
  • Full bar
  • Metered Parking, Street Parking
  • Reservations Not Accepted
Well-edited: That’s how we’d describe To the Wind Bistro, the restaurant from husband-and-wife Royce Oliveira and Leanne Adamson. The space is snug but smartly appointed, the wine list short but clever, and the menu brief but long on winners — no easy feat, given that it changes seasonally. Oliveira taps simple concepts for inspiration — a bao bun, a waffle, a Reuben sandwich, a little bone marrow — and what turns up on the table exploits nostalgic longings at the same time that it’s deliciously new. Although we still dream about the bison-tongue pastrami, paired as it was with rye-and-caraway gnocchi, Grafton cheddar and tart sauerkraut, we’re never sad when the kitchen casts a menu to the wind and starts over: That just means you’re about to make a discovery. While To the Wind is an ideal setting for a romantic date, we like the chef's counter, where you can watch the open kitchen as you eat.

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