Viaggio's menu features a complicated Italian-Southwestern-Asian fusion: green-chile lasagna, grilled salmon dressed with a sauce of roasted peppers and pecorino, pizzas, pastas, veal roulades served with red-onion tempura, angel hair pasta tossed with oyster mushrooms. Anywhere else, such combinations might be ridiculous, but it's a credit to this kitchen that a lot of these dishes come off almost as revelations. Viaggio also features Italian classics, a cheap wine list, and a staff that quickly learns your name.