Woody's kitchen does wings by the ten-count, in sauces that range from mild (pretty much just butter with a kiss of hot sauce) to hot (which isn't that hot, but biting enough to call for a cool cup of blue-cheese dressing) to nuclear. The dining room is just a white box festooned with sports pennants, wobbly tables, an ancient Galaga machine and a couple of TVs showing sporting events, but at the open line in back, sweating line dogs dunk and shake and sauce and toss all night long.
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At Big Hoss Bar-B-Q (see review, page 44), owner and Buffalo native Hoss Orwat does chicken wings – because every restaurant guy who's ever spent time in Buffalo is bound by law and tradition to do chicken wings at his joint, ...