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At the end of 2010, Michael Long, the former executive chef of Opus (he's still a partner in that Littleton operation), opened Aria at a Cherry Creek address that's seen a parade of restaurants enter and exit over the years. But Aria could hit just the right note in this neighborhood. Long is a mad genius in the kitchen, cooking up roasted bone marrow speckled with red sea salt, Italian-inspired ramen and a mound of tuna tartare harmonized with coconut jelly and a Thai peanut sauce -- a deconstructed PB&J. But while the plates are compulsively dazzling and presented with Long's unmistakable flourished artistry, the window-wrapped dining room is casual, blissfully devoid of pomp and circumstance.