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Colt & Gray is an exercise in how far someone can push a neighborhood restaurant without going completely over the edge. Since it opened just below LoHi in August 2009, the bar has been an ideal spot for hanging out, cruising for a perfectly executed cocktail, carefully selected wine or craft beer, and eating your way through one of the best and most interesting happy-hour menus in town. The menu for the cramped, elegant, very well-staffed dining room is well thought out, too, with a number of dishes featuring parts of an animal that some people would consider scraps, including award-winning bone marrow. But the basic meat offerings, including the burger, are just as noteworthy. Colt & Gray does brunch right, too, with woody and rich French-press coffee served alongside beautifully poached eggs.