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There are times when Colterra seems to be less a restaurant with its own gardens attached than a garden center that happens to have its own excellent French/Mediterranean restaurant. Chef Bradford Heap opened Colterra with the understanding that his restaurant would be a place where at least some of the promises of the burgeoning green movement might come true. And so he pulls produce for the ever-changing menu straight from his own gardens, partners with local farmers and ranchers to bulk out his larders, uses only sustainable seafoods and natural meats. His board changes constantly, ranging from all-vegetable tasting menus to house-cured pork tenderloins. Colterra has been something of an experiment from the start, but one that has produced delicious results.