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At noon on a Friday afternoon, Dancing Noodle Thai Cuisine, a tiny storefront restaurant in an unassuming strip mall, is anything but dancing. It deserves to be packed, though, because the Thai dishes turned out here shimmy, spin and sway with penetrating, provocative flavors that don't just dance, but sing, too -- loud and proud. The coconut-laced curries, heroically anti-pedestrian, are redolent with the stink of garlic, ginger and heat; even the overexposed pad Thai is shockingly good. And the couple who runs this surprisingly great joint is sweeter than Thai tea.