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On a nice day, the crowds spill out into the dusty parking lot, perching at picnic tables or wandering around by a barbecue trailer -- the original home of Hog Heaven. The barbecue is a mutt, Kansas-gone-Southern style with a little coastal twist. The ribs are big, deeply smoked, almost black at the edges and pink at the bone; the beef brisket sliced and served wet; the chopped pork shoulder a standout, combining the tender inside bits with beautiful, chewy-crackly shreds of outside meat. Just remember to ask them to hold the sauce.