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There's a lot to love at Jaya Asian Grill. The minute you walk through the door of this spot tucked into a strip mall, you're greeted by smiles from the friendly staff, curious glances from the regulars (who knew Denver had so many Indonesian and Malaysian immigrants?) and the clatter of a busy kitchen working away in the back. The menu that kitchen is working off covers a wide swath of Southeast Asian traditions and canons, with fragments of Thai cuisine tucked in among the Indonesian and Malaysian specialties, some dull Amerasian plates offered like sops to the boring neighbors, and tastes of Singapore and China appearing like hidden temples in the jungle. The shrimp dumplings could be the best in town.