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Back in 2000, Land of Sushi opened in a strip mall across from what was then Southglenn Mall -- now the Streets at SouthGlenn -- and quickly made a splash. Over the years, the spot has just gotten better. Owners Steve and Jessie Lin are Chinese, but Steve trained in sushi restaurants in New York before coming out to Colorado to open his own restaurant; the quality of the fish at Land of Sushi is a testament to his passion. He gets shipments every day, Jessie says, including Sundays, and he regularly brings in such rarities as live scallops. While the seafood selection is impressive, the restaurant itself doesn't look like much: Beyond the nondescript entrance, the dining room is comfortable but modest, with stone-topped tables crowded into a boxy space decorated rather haphazardly with mismatched wall hangings and a whiteboard listing the day's specials. But you'll forget your surroundings when you belly up to the brightly lit sushi bar, often attended by three chefs and flanked by an L-shaped counter that's usually full of guests. The bare-bones ambience just means there's nothing to distract your attention from the food -- and the food definitely deserves all your attention.