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Radek Cerny, the man behind such legendary hot spots as Papillon Cafe and Radex, has come back from the brink with L'Atelier. The place is almost ludicrous in its excesses, with giant plates, fawning service and bright, spartan decor, but what saves it from going totally over the edge is the firm hand with which Cerny controls his kitchen. Everything here is about high-concept, high-priced, high-end food. Just don't forget your sense of humor, and don't forget to make reservations.