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Locanda del Borgo has an open kitchen. A wide-open kitchen, laid out like a gastro-porn centerfold. The menu is wide-open, too, refusing to specialize or to culinarily economize, with dishes ranging from fritto misto (a fisherman's platter of squid, scallops, shrimp, artichokes and zucchini, all fried) to straccetti (a Roman stir-fry of beef "tatters" and arugula, topped with sweated onions and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar, served over a grilled polenta cake). Chef/owner Giancarlo Macchiarella may be a native of Italy, but his restaurant has a style that's uniquely Colorado.