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Lunch is busy, dinner can be worse, so breakfast may be the time to try the bunkerish Pho 79. All they do here is pho -- the slow-cooked broth-and-noodle soup served in shacks and noodle houses all over Vietnam -- with about a dozen different varieties on the menu. Strange as it may seem to get a big heaping bowl of rice noodles and beef tripe at nine in the morning, it can become a habit. And it's certain that you won't leave Pho 79 hungry.