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The Queen of Sheba Ethiopian Restaurant crouches demurely amid innocuous markets, barbershops and thrift stores along a stretch of Colfax that's the metro area’s primary, though not only, Ethiopian zone. Meat or vegetable combination platters may be the way to go for novices, but the more adventurous should dig into an order of raw kitfo -- lean beef minced nearly to a paste and mixed with clarified butter and spices, resulting in a back-of-the-throat heat and luscious texture. Stewy wotts and sauteed tibs dominate the menu, but variations on sauces that whisper with cardamom, cloves, garlic and other unfamiliar but evocative flavors sit alongside searingly hot bites to be tempered with cold lentils or a salad of tomatoes and shreds of injera -- the ubiquitous bread that serves as an edible spoon in an otherwise cutlery-free restaurant. The atmosphere mirrors the personality of its proprietor (who is also the sole server, hostess, cook and cashier): a little harried but never rushed, spread a little thin but not to the point of frustration, and always sharing a smile or a gleam in the eye.