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Rioja opened in late 2004 to unprecedented fanfare -- fawned over by the press, loved up on the foodie message boards, packed from the start almost every night of the week. And it's just gotten better from there. The fare coming out of chef/owner Jennifer Jasinski's open kitchen is a jumble of Mediterranean, Spanish and loose, fusion-y concepts with handmade pastas and excellent sauces. The room is comfortable, casual and perfectly geared for the skittish Larimer Square foot traffic, full of folks who might stop in for a quick drink but wind up lingering over dinner.