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In the fall of 2011, Frank Bonanno carved out another niche for his Bonanno Concepts empire. Russell’s Smokehouse, tucked into a basement space behind Wednesday’s Pie, is an underground monument to meat. The name, like that of the nearby Green Russell, pays tribute to the rich geographical history of the city of Denver, and Larimer Square specifically, and the cooking recalls that of the old West, when meat was cooked slowly, over a low flame. The specialty here isn’t the sauce – which is why Bonanno doesn’t call this a barbecue joint – but there are plenty of fixin’s to go with the assortment of smoked meats, including pigs in a blanket, sweet-potato hash and bread pudding.