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When Sassafras opened in an old Victorian bungalow listed on the National Register of Historic Places (it was the original home of La Loma), co-owner Julia Grother brought considerable experience in the restaurant business to the neighborhood – and a lot of Southern comfort. The space itself is cozy, with a big wraparound porch and wallpaper reminiscent of a great-aunt’s parlor. And there are plenty of authentic Southern dishes on the breakfast-and-lunch-only menu: collard greens, which come with the fried chicken; gumbo, which gets its deep, earthy kick from filé powder; shrimp and grits; and fried green tomatoes, which are featured in a Benedict and as the stuffing of a sandwich. And then there are the biscuits, which chef Colin Mallet brought to his job interview with Grother. One bite of one of these golden creations and you’ll know why he’s in the kitchen here.