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Spuntino is Italian for “snacks,” but this Highland restaurant has grown far behind snacks since it was taken over by owners/spouses Yasmin Lozada-Hissom and John Broening in 2012. The two renovated the cozy space, got a full-fledged liquor license and added a bar program, expanded hours to include (and emphasize) dinner, loaded the dessert list with the kinds of treats that have earned Lozada-Hissom four James Beard Award nominations, and updated the menu with medium-priced Italian dishes that emphasize local, seasonal ingredients. But it’s not Broening in the kitchen cooking those dishes; although he continues to oversee the place, he’s working full-time at Le Grand Bistro. As a result, Spuntino isn’t the dining destination it perhaps could be, but it remains a reliable grill next door for northwest Denver.