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Owner Johnny Ballen unleashed Squeaky Bean in Highland in May 2009, and it generated quite the following before shuttering two years later. The current iteration of the Bean, which opened in June 2012 in the historic Saddlery building on Wynkoop Street, is everything (and more) that Ballen envisioned, with the same convivial vibrancy, irreverent accents and guts and glory of the original. But this much larger space also features exposed wooden floors and ancient beams, as well as a horseshoe-shaped bar, crescent-shaped booths, floor-to-ceiling windows and an exhibition kitchen with counter seating. That expansive kitchen allows for nearly constant menu changes, swapping ingredients for whatever’s coming out of the ground these days at the one-acre garden known as Squeaky Acres. Those ingredients are put together in incredibly playful yet balanced ways, then plated in presentations that look as good as the dishes ultimately taste.