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"Kokoro bebop" -- that's what chef Wayne Conwell's doing at the very hip, ultra-modern Sushi Sasa. "Kokoro" from the heart of traditional Japanese culture, "bebop" from his tendency to riff on and reinterpret Japanese soul food. More than that, he's adding to the canon of Japanese cuisine, bringing in the influences of Italian and French food, as well as an intimate understanding of American tastes. The menu is fusion without being fusion, new but classic -- and all of the sushi is superb. Bring the gold card and don't forget to make reservations.