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The Counter is a concept born in California in 2003, a pure product of the fast-casual boom and West Coast culture. The casual, friendly Counter is a burger joint -- a burger joint with a bar. And it really lets you have it your way. You order your burger sushi-bar style, from a checklist that offers a very nearly overwhelming plethora of options -- at least 300,000 possible combinations of burgers, buns and toppings, enough to not just smudge the line between minimalist restraint and pure American overkill, but completely obliterate it. And it all works, because it starts with a very good basic burger.