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WaterCourse Foods opened in 1998, and over the years, its name has become synonymous in Denver with meat-free cooking. During that long run, WaterCourse has also become something of a community center -- not just for vegetarians and vegans, but for gluten-free diners and others with the kinds of dietary restrictions that make eating out tricky. The setting inspires this kind of community: Watercourse's second home, in almost 180-degree turn from its cramped former location on 13th Avenue which now holds sibling City, O' City (itself expanded into a large, bright spot). But WaterCourse doesn't want to be known just as a vegetarian restaurant; it wants to be known as a place with great food. and it comes closest to meeting that goal on the chef's page of the big menu, which features dishes that switch seasonally and feel fresh and inspired.