Shelter from the Storm

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There are some restaurants where the world does not intrude -- rooms where time does not pass, weather does not change, current events go unnoted. Often inadvertently, these restaurants have successfully stopped time -- a trick that mad scientists and evil super-geniuses have been attempting since forever with dark matter and black holes and atomic-energy-mo-trons, but that here is accomplished with nothing more than an old-school egg roll and a total disregard for advances in the field of interior decorating.

Attempting to escape the blizzards and the holidays -- and to get some shrimp pho -- I went to Pho Saigon in Centennial, and discovered that it is one of those rare places where time stands still. But the kitchen does not, and even with the highways shut down, my shrimp pho was delivered. For the rest of the story, see my complete review in this week's Westword, which hits the streets and this web site later today.

As for dining in 2007, so pho, so good. -- Jason Sheehan