Three months. For most critics, that's the amount of time that must pass before a brand-new restaurant is considered fair game for a review. Ostensibly, three months should be long enough for a place to survive its opening jitters, find a true tone and voice, and get a good set of legs under it. During that time, the kitchen should have winnowed down its original menu and ditched any dogs -- those plates that look great on paper but never really work -- and management should have let go of any losers who couldn't hack the daily grind of... More >>>