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Best chile relleno

Chelo's

For proof that beauty is more than chile-skin deep, stop by Chelo's, a teeny little bakery that's open only until 6 p.m. each day. But that's plenty of time to score a plate of chiles rellenos, gooey, greasy and oh-so-good, served in a gritty setting that only enhances their flavor. Order your meal at a bakery display case crammed with fruit-filled empanadas and

cookies, and while you wait the six minutes for them to whip up the rellenos, munch on the tortilla chips and hot, cilantro-dotted salsa that come with your meal -- which costs a whopping $4.50. But you'd normally pay twice as much for the two poblanos that come stuffed with that requisite, fabulously nebulous white cheese; they've been coated in a loose, eggy batter that soaks up the grease and then cloaked in a chunky, tomato-heavy green chile. There's no point in wasting your time on the refrieds that come with the chiles, but the rice is good, and you get two flour tortillas to sop up the juices. Prepare to leave stuffed --

but first, grab a sugar-dusted blueberry empanada for the road and take a gander at the impressive selection of dried goods, including purple posole and salted corn.

Readers' choice: Benny's

Best green chile

La Casa de Manuel

It's not easy being green. When Manuel Silva was forced to close down his original Casa de Manuel at 2010 Larimer -- an address he'd occupied for forty years -- the town worried that we'd never see his green chile again. But then he found another spot eleven blocks to the north, and while it's not nearly as cool as the original location, the green here is just as hot. Not too thin, not too thick, with plenty of pork and enough heat to keep things interesting, it's best ordered by the bowl or smothering a "wet" burrito. Manuel's green chile could be Denver's greatest liquid asset; here's to forty more years in the new spot.

Readers' choice: Brewery Bar

Best green chile

La Casa de Manuel

It's not easy being green. When Manuel Silva was forced to close down his original Casa de Manuel at 2010 Larimer -- an address he'd occupied for forty years -- the town worried that we'd never see his green chile again. But then he found another spot eleven blocks to the north, and while it's not nearly as cool as the original location, the green here is just as hot. Not too thin, not too thick, with plenty of pork and enough heat to keep things interesting, it's best ordered by the bowl or smothering a "wet" burrito. Manuel's green chile could be Denver's greatest liquid asset; here's to forty more years in the new spot.

Readers' choice: Brewery Bar

Best gringo green chile

CityGrille

Courtesy CityGrille Facebook
If there's one thing that Colorado lobbyists, legislators and lawyers alike can agree on, it's the mean green at CityGrille. Last year former Bay Wolf owner Richard Salturelli and his partner/chef, onetime Beacon Grill chef David Minty, took over the old home of J. Beatty's, turning it into not just a watering hole for the town's movers and shakers, but also a respectable restaurant. CityGrille does grill up one of the town's best burgers; it also combines jalapeos, tomatoes and pork in a way few Mexican places have been able to muster, let alone master. This glorious, gravylike green chile has perfect smothering qualities, plus a fair number of soft, tender -- not gristly, not fatty -- pork chunks that make it ideal for eating with a couple of torts, too. A firm but not overwhelming chile kick adds extra interest, and the lack of greasiness means it's easy to wipe any accidental drips off those important court papers. But don't scrape the bottom of your empty plate too loudly; you'll want to hear the conversation of those around you. They're talking green -- and we don't mean chile.

Best gringo green chile

CityGrille

If there's one thing that Colorado lobbyists, legislators and lawyers alike can agree on, it's the mean green at CityGrille. Last year former Bay Wolf owner Richard Salturelli and his partner/chef, onetime Beacon Grill chef David Minty, took over the old home of J. Beatty's, turning it into not just a watering hole for the town's movers and shakers, but also a respectable restaurant. CityGrille does grill up one of the town's best burgers; it also combines jalapeños, tomatoes and pork in a way few Mexican places have been able to muster, let alone master. This glorious, gravylike green chile has perfect smothering qualities, plus a fair number of soft, tender -- not gristly, not fatty -- pork chunks that make it ideal for eating with a couple of torts, too. A firm but not overwhelming chile kick adds extra interest, and the lack of greasiness means it's easy to wipe any accidental drips off those important court papers. But don't scrape the bottom of your empty plate too loudly; you'll want to hear the conversation of those around you. They're talking green -- and we don't mean chile.

Best green chile at the 19th hole

El Curso Viejo

Ah, the nineteenth hole. It comes on like a refreshing oasis after four hours of frustration spent hitting, then chasing, a little white ball. From the final tee box, the nineteenth hole rises in the distance like an ice-cold beer in the desert -- or, in the case of the public City Park Golf Course, a Corona in the desert. El Curso Viejo, to be specific. If your appetite hasn't been battered down by a day's worth of futility, stop in at this cozy cantina and gobble down one or two tasty breakfast burritos smothered in green chile. If your intelligence is still in order, go for an entire bowl of the vegetarian green. "We use three different kinds on chiles," says part-owner Marie Martinez, a New Mexico native who is unwilling to say much more about the secret trio, "one of which makes it hot and spicy and gives it a kick." After a day of golfing, a kick is sometimes just what you need.

Best green chile at the 19th hole

El Curso Viejo

Ah, the nineteenth hole. It comes on like a refreshing oasis after four hours of frustration spent hitting, then chasing, a little white ball. From the final tee box, the nineteenth hole rises in the distance like an ice-cold beer in the desert -- or, in the case of the public City Park Golf Course, a Corona in the desert. El Curso Viejo, to be specific. If your appetite hasn't been battered down by a day's worth of futility, stop in at this cozy cantina and gobble down one or two tasty breakfast burritos smothered in green chile. If your intelligence is still in order, go for an entire bowl of the vegetarian green. "We use three different kinds on chiles," says part-owner Marie Martinez, a New Mexico native who is unwilling to say much more about the secret trio, "one of which makes it hot and spicy and gives it a kick." After a day of golfing, a kick is sometimes just what you need.

Best late-night desserts

Cafe Cero

Satisfy that sweet tooth before you get too long in the tooth. Cafe Cero, which is open until 2 a.m. every night but Monday, is just the spot for curbing post-theater munchies or relaxing after a tough night of bar-hopping, full of fun, groovy spaces that invite kicking back and grabbing a snack. The dessert menu, which is served until 1 a.m., changes frequently but usually features a decadent cheesecake as well as several varieties of heavenly moist cakes (the hazelnut is one of the best) and a superb crème brûlée. Get another drink (if you dare) or sip on some coffee, listen to whatever live act is playing -- sometimes it's comedy, sometimes it's music -- and enjoy your last insulin rush of the night.

Best late-night desserts

Cafe Cero

Satisfy that sweet tooth before you get too long in the tooth. Cafe Cero, which is open until 2 a.m. every night but Monday, is just the spot for curbing post-theater munchies or relaxing after a tough night of bar-hopping, full of fun, groovy spaces that invite kicking back and grabbing a snack. The dessert menu, which is served until 1 a.m., changes frequently but usually features a decadent cheesecake as well as several varieties of heavenly moist cakes (the hazelnut is one of the best) and a superb crème brûlée. Get another drink (if you dare) or sip on some coffee, listen to whatever live act is playing -- sometimes it's comedy, sometimes it's music -- and enjoy your last insulin rush of the night.

Best red chile

Armida's

It's only fitting that one of the town's friendliest Mexican eateries also serves its most mellow chile. Fauso and Armida Corral own Armida's, a cute, unassuming spot with an upstairs for pool players, a dining room for diners and a patio for those who just want to enjoy the view and a few beers. No matter what you're there for, the Corrals zip around like ambassadors from Mazatlan, intent on seeing that you're treated right. And what treats you're treated to: everything from a zippy salsa to top-quality grilled sirloin. But we go on red alert for the red chile, gently spiced, made without meat but not lacking in flavor. A little smoky, with a hint of onion, a touch of garlic and lots of sweet tomato, the purée is as smooth as paint and only slightly thicker. Like everything else at Armida's, the red always tastes freshly made, and it's especially good on the fat, cheese-oozy enchiladas.

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