Aloha Hawaiian Barbecue

Color photos of menu items clutter the front window of this little shoebox Hawaiian joint in suburban Thornton, offering the promise of a filling, comforting and inexpensive meal inside -- a Spam musubi here will set you back less than the price of a cup of coffee elsewhere. Aloha's interior leans strongly toward the Spartan, with little decor other than a Hawaiian state flag and orange bench seats reminiscent of a 1970s burger shack. But it's a clean and lively space, with enticing aromas of sweet marinade rising from hot grill surfaces in the kitchen. Best bets are the teriyaki-style barbecued meats such as beef short ribs, chicken and steak, all rich and sticky with dark glaze. A side order of housemade kimchi will add just enough fire and funk to heavy but satisfying plate-lunch specials. Don't forget to say "Mahalo!"