Dos Santos Taqueria de Mexico

In their first venture together outside of Mexico, brothers Kris and Jason Wallenta have created a hit with Dos Santos, a taqueria in the Uptown neighborhood. The space, formerly the home of D Bar, has been thoroughly transformed, with a rustic, industrial feel that stands in sharp contrast to D Bar’s preciousness. Walls are trimmed with horizontal planks and old gym lockers, and small chalkboards casually announce the menu’s few offerings; in the dim lighting at dinner, it’s just possible to make out the painted letters of a dry-cleaning sign on a brick wall uncovered during renovation. Flickering prayer candles and crosses are littered about, some tucked between bottles at the bar, others propped on hanging shelves. The religious motif is heightened by spectacular wooden joists — also uncovered during renovation — that draw the eye upward, giving the impression of a chapel’s vaulted ceiling. But if people are worshipping anything here, it’s the high-quality tacos: the tinga, with chicken braised in a smoky tomato-chipotle broth; the arrachera, with grilled, marinated steak and salsa verde; and the porky, with slow-roasted pork fragrant with cumin and orange. Don’t miss weekend brunch, the only time that ganache-filled churros and standout chilaquiles make an appearance.