Phoenician Kabob

On East Colfax Avenue, restaurants tend to get lost in the long procession of storefronts, many in various states of disrepair. But Phoenician Kabob has managed to stay in people’s memories despite its setting. Silky hummus, housemade pita and perfectly prepared Middle Eastern standards (don’t miss the namesake kabobs) are all draws, but the details — a rusty-red dusting of sumac, a savory sprinkling of za’atar, an unmistakable hit of fresh herbs — are what stick in the mind long after a meal is over. Little pastry boats called fattayer convey cheeses and meats for a unique appetizer, while bigger plates exhibit an expertise with chicken, beef and especially lamb. Food is one of the surest triggers of memories, and at Phoenician Kabob, those memories are all good.