Taco Wagon

The Taco Wagon, crouching in the parking lot of El Mercado, a Mexican grocery in Lafayette, commands eye-rollingly long waits, but it's worth missing whatever commitment you've got lined up -- school, court, hell, even your nuptials -- to first profess your love for the breakfast burritos. They're delivered through a sliding glass window, behind which resides a couple with a no-nonsense sense of purpose: He takes your money; she creates Mexican magic. There are street tacos surfaced with marinated Mexican meats, onions and cilantro; tortas stacked with refritos, lengua, pickled jalapeños, avocado, queso and lettuce; and handheld breakfast burritos, served morning, noon and night from the wagon's window. The breakfast burritos -- blazing-hot green-chile-intensive packages bursting with scrambled eggs, nubs of spicy chorizo and slightly charred potatoes -- are assembled by callused hands that take the morning ritual more seriously than most people take their marriage. The Taco Wagon takes its salsas seriously, too, offering two housemade creations: one green, the other red, both worthy of their own ode to greatness.