Acapulco Tacos y Pupusas

During busy hours at Acapulco, you practically need a shoehorn to get into the microscopic front room that barely has space for its four counter seats and the window where you order; even during off-hours, it's unusual to find an empty seat here. The owner, Roberto Lopez, hails from Mexico, and his wife comes from El Salvador; the tiny shack hawks dishes from both countries -- tacos and burritos as well as authentic Salvadoran pupusas, which are the real standouts. Two rounds of masa sandwiching meat, cheese, beans or loroco, a Central American flower bud, are griddled on the flat-top long enough that the outside gets crispy and golden and cheese oozes out of the sides. The eatery serves the pudgy pouches with a pickled-cabbage coleslaw called curtido and watery tomato salsa. You'll want to try all them all -- even if you have to eat them in your car.