Tamales Moreno

Tamales Moreno is housed in a dilapidated, grubby yellow shack fronted by a counter that fails to hide all the kitchen equipment covered with a fine film of grease. A gumball machine by the counter is filled with candy that looks dusty and ancient, and the supply of drinks in a soda dispenser on the counter long ago dried up, so the machine seems to be there just as decoration and, perhaps, extra lighting. But don't let the decor deter you, because this joint makes some of the best tamales in town, corn-husk-wrapped packets of silky masa, succulent pork or chicken and green chile that can be made hot enough to make your intestines melt. The tamales are available bundled into Ziploc bags by the half-dozen or dozen, or you can ask for just one smothered in more chile. But don't forget to brush the dust from your seat before you eat.