Sunny-side up at the Noshery.EXPAND
Sunny-side up at the Noshery.
Mark Antonation

100 Favorite Dishes: Biscuits and Green Chile at the Noshery

No. 88: Biscuits and Green Chile at the Noshery
The sun's pouring through a window, illuminating the steam from a cup of coffee next to a big plate of biscuits and green chile. Two eggs, sunny-side up, fill in the remaining white space on the plate. Inside the Noshery at 50th and Lowell, a meditative calm emanates from the genial staffers who quietly explain pastry choices in the case full of housemade turnovers, tarts and quick breads — and from the space itself, done up in robin's egg blue and country white.

The Noshery is more than just a coffeehouse; it's also a bakery that makes bread for its own sandwiches, a hangout for Regis University students and faculty, and a full kitchen capable of pulling off perfect fried eggs — a far cry from the standard microwaved pucks that many kitchenless coffee shops insert into breakfast sandwiches.

The biscuits are baked here, too; they're firm yet fluffy inside with a sturdy crust that makes a hollow sound when tapped with a fork. You can get your biscuits topped with creamy country gravy, which wouldn't be a mistake, or you can opt for the house green chile, which is more of a pork stew napped in a thick, brownish-green sauce. It's on the mild end, as far as green chile goes, but with just enough gentle heat to keep in harmony with the surroundings. This is a big, hearty plate of food that rings in at a reasonable $8.75, but the Noshery has plenty to offer for appetites of all sizes. For something fun and light, try the potato waffles with house-smoked salmon and chive creme fraiche.


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