100 Favorite Dishes: Bison Pastrami at To the Wind Bistro

The bison pastrami at To the Wind Bistro.EXPAND
The bison pastrami at To the Wind Bistro.
Laura Shunk

No. 50: Bison Pastrami at To the Wind Bistro
Well-edited. That's how we'd describe To the Wind Bistro, the restaurant from husband-and-wife Royce Oliveira and Leanne Adamson. The space is snug but smartly appointed, the wine list short but well-curated, and the menu brief but long on winners — no easy feat, given that it changes seasonally.

We're firmly in fall now, and so current dishes are designed to steel you against cool nights. Take, for instance, the bison pastrami, described by an affable server as a deconstructed take on a reuben. "I make the pastrami according to Alton Brown's corned beef recipe," Oliveira divulges. "Potassium nitrate keeps the color." He adds that he's using buffalo tongue, although you won't see that listed on the menu.

For the finished plate, the chef starts with a bed of sharp rye and caraway gnocchi; it supports a generous heap of thin slices of that pastrami, all red velvet-centered and imbued with pepper. Grafton cheddar adds a complementary earthiness, while tart sauerkraut lends a clean bite; taint prickly heat from the mustard in the creme fraiche completes the balancing act. Together, the ingredients invite nostalgia for your favorite deli counter, while standing firmly in the realm of food that you can pair to a sophisticated red wine.

And you should do that, actually. We recommend the Pinot Noir, which enhances the earth and acidity of this plate nicely.

Hungry for more? All of the dishes in our 2016 countdown are linked below.
No. 100: Masala Beef at Biju's Little Curry Shop
No. 99: Bacon Shrimp and Grits at Bacon Social House
No. 98: Porchetta and Kimchi Sandwich at Brider
No. 97: Squab-and-Sunchoke Tortellini at Abejas
No. 96: Housemade Burrata at Viand
No. 95: Schweinshaxe at Rhein Haus
No. 94 Kimchi Jeon at Seoul BBQ
No. 93: Zuppa Pomodoro at Parisi Italian Market & Deli
No. 92: The Ocean Salad at Sushi-Rama
No. 91: The Signature Bowl from Churn & Burn
No. 90: Green Chorizo at Los Compadres
No. 89: The Diavola Calzone at Pino's Neighborhood Pizzeria
No. 88: Biscuits and Green Chile at the Noshery
No. 87: Chirashi at Izu Sushi
No. 86: Brisket and Ribs at GQue Championship BBQ
No. 85: The Tornado at the Chowder Room
No. 84: Korean Fried Chicken Wings at Yong Gung
No. 83: A Meatball Hero at Lil' Ricci's New York Pizzeria
No. 82: Shakshuka at Stowaway Coffee + Kitchen
No. 81: Late-Night Ramen at Brazen
No. 80: Potato Tacos at El Tejado
No. 79: Corned Beef Heart at theWay Back
No. 78: The Fried Bologna Sandwich at Snarfburger
No. 77: Sweet Corn Mezzaluna at Bar Dough
No. 76: Duck Confit at Table 6
No. 75: Croque Monsieur at Fire
No. 74: Tahini Cookies at the Preservery
No. 73: The Alferd Packer Salad at MAD Greens
No. 72: The Tuna Poke Bowl at Ohana Island Kitchen
No. 71: Mini Chile Rellenos at La Loma
No. 70: The Combination Banh Mi at Vinh Xuong Bakery
No. 69: The Falafel Waffle at Moxie Eatery
No. 68: Korean Fried Duck Wings at Chow Urban Grill
No. 67: Spaghetti Alla Carbonara at Spatola
No. 66: The Classic Burger from Skirted Heifer
No. 65: The Chicken Salad Stuffed Avocado at Poppies
No. 64: Super Pass Key Special at Pass Key
No. 63: How the West Was Won at Dozens Restaurant
No. 62: Manzo With Polenta at Spuntino
No. 61: P & S Snack Mix at the Pig & the Sprout
No. 59-60: Sloppers at Gray's Coors Tavern and Diego's
No. 58: Potstickers at Zoe Ma Ma
No. 57: Griddle Cooked Bullfrog at Yum Yum Spice
No. 56: Macaroni and Cheese at Work & Class
No. 55: Lobster, Egg and Caviar Bruschetta at Bar Fausto
No. 54: Orecchiette at Coperta
No. 53: Cheese Steak at Steuben's Food Service
No. 52: PB&B Acai Bowl at ProsperOats
No. 51: Gold Miner's Breakfast at River and Woods

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To the Wind Bistro

3333 E. Colfax Ave.
Denver, CO 80206

303-316-3333

tothewindbistro.com


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