No. 63: Bouillabaisse from Deluxe
In 2004, when Dylan Moore opened Deluxe on a stretch of Broadway that had yet to burgeon, he wasn't entirely sure his moody little food temple was going to make it, but over the years, the tiny restaurant that could has steadfastly evolved into one of our favorite hangouts in the city, in part because of the intimate chef's counter that overlooks Moore's culinary kingdom, but mainly because of Moore's command performances in that kingdom.
He doesn't change his menu every five minutes -- or even every five months -- and he doesn't bow to faddish trends, and that's just fine with us, because if it ain't broke, why fix it? He did, however, redo his board just over a month ago, and while he's toying with changing it more often than he has in the past, we're praying to the gastronomic gods and goddesses that he doesn't do a damn thing with the bouillabaisse, because not only is it one of our favorite dishes -- it is, without a shred of doubt, the best bouillabaisse in Denver. Moore perfumes the soup, sea-soaked with pudgy mussels, shrimp, fleshy cubes of sea bass and whatever else he feels like lobbing in, with saffron and fresh fennel, and serves the generously portioned bowl with triangles of focaccia, streaked with grill marks and smudged with a pervasive rouille smooched with garlic.
Hungry for more? All the dishes in our countdown are linked below:
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In late 2009, we embarked on a culinary journey that took us through our favorite dishes in the Mile High City -- one hundred, to be exact. Now we're back with round two, counting down (in no particular order) a hundred more of our favorite Denver dishes in a list that, by our imperfect calculations, should be wrapped up...sometime this year. If there's a dish you think we need to try, tell us about it in the comments section below, or shoot us an e-mail at email@example.com.