100 Favorite Dishes: Corned Beef Heart at the Way Back

No. 79: Corned Beef Heart at the Way Back
We recently included the Way Back, which opened at 4132 West 38th Avenue in March, on our list of the ten most promising new bars of the year so far. But co-owner Chad Michael George says he considers his hip Highland stop to be as much a restaurant as a bar. And we can't disagree, especially not after a certain small plate won our hearts: a surprisingly delicate presentation of cured beef heart shingled atop herbed new potatoes.

Those leery of organ meats should consider beef heart as a safe plunge into offal goodness. Unlike liver, kidneys, sweetbread or the notorious Rocky Mountain oyster, heart is nothing but muscle, just like the steaks and roasts that meat lovers generally crave. Heart is also very lean and so needs little cooking to bring out the best in its flavor and texture.  The Way Back's version is corned — which means it has been cured with salt and spiced — before being gently cooked. The result comes out like a cross between top-quality deli meat and a medium-rare filet. 


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