100 Favorite Dishes: Fried Green Tomatoes at Sassafras American Eatery

Fried Green Tomatoes and Eggs Sardou at Sassafras American Eatery.EXPAND
Fried Green Tomatoes and Eggs Sardou at Sassafras American Eatery.
Linnea Covington

No. 17: Fried Green Tomatoes at Sassafras American Eatery
One of the best aspects of the fried green tomatoes at Sassafras is that you can order them three ways. For breakfast, try the fried green tomato Benedict, then at lunch go with a fried green tomato po'boy, and finally, order a side of fried green tomatoes whenever the mood strikes you. No matter how you eat them, the method for making these five-star deep-fried slices remains the same.

"It starts with an heirloom tomato," says owner Julia Grother, adding that in the cooler months they switch it up with beefsteak tomatoes grown  in Boulder especially for Sassafras. "Then we buttermilk-marinate it to add to the flavor."

From there, chef Colin Mallet dredges the green fruits in a mixture of cornmeal, flour, cayenne and garlic, and fries them into crisp discs of tart, savory and spicy joy. Though tasty alone, when you top them with rich Hollandaise or a sun-dried-tomato vinaigrette, they sing even more.

"Fried green tomatoes are a usual thing you have in the South," says Grother. "My mom would make them, and chef's family as well, so it's a comforting thing we were familiar with and used to."

It's easy to understand the Southern influence, given that Grother's family hails from Georgia and Louisiana native Mallet cooked in New Orleans before moving to Colorado. And, as with many places in the South, you can enjoy this dish in what used to be a fancy house. The historic William J. Dunwoody House, to be exact, a building that dates back to 1889 and comes complete with stained glass, a porch for al fresco dining, and plenty of cozy nooks and crannies ideal for cuddling up to your plate of fried green tomatoes.

Get this dish at either the aforementioned Jefferson Park location or at the newer spot in Capitol Hill. No matter which you choose, both locations do the dishes with the same Southern charm and serve them from 7 a.m. on weekdays and 8 a.m. on weekends until 2:30 p.m.

We're counting down the best dishes in the city in advance of Westword's Dish event on September 20 in Sculpture Park at the Denver Performing Arts Complex, where many of our Best of Denver winners — along with other favorites — will congregate to serve up small plates. If there's a dish you think we need to try, tell us about it in the comments section, or shoot us an e-mail at cafe@westword.com.

Hungry for more? All the dishes in our countdown are linked below.

No. 100: Chile Relleno at La Fiesta
No. 99: Gurage Kitfo at Megenagna Ethiopian Restaurant
No. 98: Cochinita Pibil at Work & Class
No. 97: The Greggers Tongue Sandwich at Olive & Finch 
No. 96: Baum Cakes at Glaze by Sasa
No. 95: Goat hot pot from Viet's
No.94: Head cheese from Beast + Bottle
No. 93: Kettle Chips from Amerigo Delicatus
No. 92: Pork Belly Confit at Solera Restaurant and Wine Bar
No. 91: Tacos Campechanos from La Calle Taqueria
No. 90: Biscuits from Denver Biscuit Co.
No. 89: Clams and Chorizo at Gozo
No. 88: Aburi Sushi at Sushi Den and Izakaya Den
No. 87: Kimchi and Sausage Torta at City, O' City
No. 86: Mar y Tierra Molcajete at Paxia
No. 85: Crispy Pork Spare Ribs at Table Top
No. 84: Chips and Dip at Euclid Hall
No. 83: Chile Relleno Burrito at El Taco de Mexico
No. 82: Scallop Crudo at Stoic & Genuine
No. 81: Ceylon Curry Dosa at Khazana
No. 80: The Lambada Torta at La Torteria
No. 79: Pork Bulgogi at Dae Gee
No. 78: the Pulled Pork Pig Pen Sandwich at Boney's
No. 77: IPA Mac & Cheese at Hops & Pie
No. 76: Chiles en Nogada at Chili Verde
No. 75: Udon Noodle Bowl at Bones
No. 74: Cinnamon Rolls at the Duffeyroll Cafe
No. 73: Smoked Turkey Croque-Madame at Acorn
No. 72: Pickled Lake Michigan Perch at Trillium
No. 71: Oysters at Jax Fish House Glendale
No. 70: Venezuelan Tostadas at Empanada Express Grill
No. 69: Tahini Cauliflower from Biker Jim's Gourmet Dogs
No. 68: The Ham and Cheese Tartita from Maria Empanada
No. 67: Ronnie's Favorite from Rosenberg's Bagels and Deli
No. 66: Shoo-fly Pie from the Long i Pie Shop
No. 65: Czech Potato Pancakes at Sobo 151
No. 64: Fried Chicken at the Post Brewing Co.
No. 63: Braised Brisket Sandwich at Masterpiece Delicatessen
No. 62: The Scotch Egg from Argyll Whisky Beer
No. 61: Butternut Squash Ravioli at DiFranco's
No. 60: Sesame Balls at Vinh Xuong Bakery
No. 59: Curry Puffs at Suvipa Thai Food
No. 58: Diavola Pizza at Pizzeria Locale
No. 57: Chorizo Breakfast Stew at DJ's 9th Avenue Cafe
No. 56: The Rare Beast Sandwich at Salt & Grinder
No. 55: 48-Hour Short Ribs at Chop Shop Casual Urban Eatery
No. 54: Marrow Bone Brulee at Mercantile Dining & Provision
No. 53: Prawns and Pork Belly at Blackbelly Market
No. 52: Belgian Waffles from Waffle Up
No. 51: Nashville Hot Chicken at Lou's Food Bar
No. 50: Breakfast Burrito from Chickee's Lil Kitchen 
No. 49: Monkfish and Romanesco at TAG
No. 48: Cabeza Tacos at Taqueria El Trompito
No. 47: Pupusas Revueltas at Pupuseria San Salvador
No. 46: Sesame Pockets at Golden Plate II
No. 45: Tuna Mousse at Cart-Driver
No. 44: Tavern Tots at the Highland Tavern  
No. 43: Carne Asada Fries at North County
No. 42: Pho at Wonderbowl
No. 41: Shredded Bison at Tocabe
No. 40: Nachos al Pastor from Tony Guacamole
No. 39: Prosciutto Pop Tart from Bakin' Bakery
No. 38: Ham and Egg Congee at Onefold
No. 37: Lao Sausage at the Asian Cajun
No. 36: Pan Bagnat at Fuel Cafe 
No. 35: Meatloaf Sandwich at City Bakery Cafe
No. 34: Okonomiyaki at Kobe An
No. 33: Farrotto Piccolo at Basta
No. 32: Fried Gizzards at Catfish King
No. 31: My Wife's Donuts at Osaka Ramen
No. 30: Foie Gras Bonbons at Milk & Honey Bar Kitchen
No. 29: Gnocchi Maison au Canard Fume at Z Cuisine
No. 28: Mysore Thali at Masalaa
No. 27: The Papa Bear at Cub's Q Barbeque
No. 26: Xiaolongbao at Shanghai Kitchen
No. 25: Bake Rice With Porkchop at Hong Kong Cafe
No. 24: A Burger at Bob's Atomic Burger
No. 23: The Emma Farms Wagyu Beef Burger at Edge Restaurant & Bar
N
o. 22: Parma Italia Pizza at Blue Pan Pizza
No. 21: Purple Cow Ice Cream at Little Man Ice Cream
No. 20: Colorado Striped Bass Crudo at Beatrice & Woodsley
No. 19: Mongolian BBQ Duck Buns at Linger
No. 18: Pink Lady Roll at Sushi Sasa 

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