No. 59: Lamb vindaloo from Cuisine of the Himalayas
If I hadn't gotten lost in Evergreen while looking for another restaurant that I'm now convinced doesn't exist (maybe it never did), I never would have ended up in a random parking lot that lays clam to what may be my favorite Indian restaurant in the state. In Evergreen. And if that's not some weird shit I don't know what is, because when it comes to international grub, Evergreen sucks pine cones. But there, next to a frozen yogurt parlor, squats Cuisine of the Himalayas, the town's version of planet Bollywood, and while there are no belly dancers swiveling their hips, no film industry posters, no cinema reel, and no pulsating music, there's something that matters far, far more: the food, a cross-section of Nepalese, Tibetan and Indian cuisines that's focused, clear and simply fantastic. I've searched forever for a vindaloo that gets it right -- one with a pronounced vinegar tartness that's punishingly spicy enough to fight off dragons but not so overwhelming that it obliterates the exotica of spices that perfume the air. I found that here, in the lamb vindaloo, which makes the mountain trek to ever-boring Evergreen worth the drive.
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In late 2009, we embarked on a culinary journey that took us through our favorite dishes in the Mile High City -- one hundred, to be exact. Now we're back with round two, counting down (in no particular order) a hundred more of our favorite Denver dishes in a list that, by our imperfect calculations, should be wrapped up...sometime this year. If there's a dish you think we need to try, tell us about it in the comments section below, or shoot us an e-mail at email@example.com.