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100 Favorite Dishes: Mixiote de borrego from El Trompito Taqueria

100 Favorite Dishes: Mixiote de borrego from El Trompito Taqueria
Lori Midson

No. 56: Mixiote de borrego from El Trompito Taqueria

I'm always on the prowl to find the best taqueria in the city, and on Saturday, after harvesting vegetables at Miller Farms -- and working up an appetite -- I pulled into the thronged parking lot of El Trompito Taqueria, a smashing wonderland of Mexican street food dominated by the thuds of cleavers in the open kitchen, tacos in every guise, sizzling meats, huaraches, alambres, skyscraping tortas, and a spectacular mixiote de borrego, an overnight-braised lamb shank, deeply gamy, untamed and reeking of that unmistakably pungent, in-your-throat musky rush, the shards, ropes and slivers of flesh, easily flecked with a fork, at once crunchy and soft.

The beast, swathed in a chile-slapped adobo sauce abundant with prickly-pear cactus leaves, arrives with a heap of corn tortillas, Mexican rice and refritos dotted with crumbles of queso fresco -- which is more than sufficient -- but the salsa bar, squatting squarely in the middle of the dining room, is an object of beauty, too.

Hungry for more? All the dishes in our countdown are linked below:

No. 100: Italian wedding soup from the Squeaky Bean No. 99: American Classic Burger (and fries) from Tarbell's No. 98: E's clam linguini from Mangiamo Pronto No. 97: Queso a la plancha taco from the Pinche Tacos wagon No. 96: Prosciutto-wrapped jalapeño poppers from Tony's Market No. 95: Fried chicken from the Pinyon No. 94: Seafood soup from Farro No. 93: Posole from The Porker No. 92: Breakfast Burrito from the Taco Wagon in Lafayette No. 91: Hummus from Shish Kabob Grill No. 90: Albondigas meatballs from Solera No. 89: Lemon-ricotta doughnuts from Olivéa No. 88: Döner kabob from Shondiz No. 87: Roasted cauliflower salad from Euclid Hall No. 86: Beef cheek enchiladas from El Diablo No. 85: Fried Brussels sprouts from Panzano No. 84: Pork osso buco from Osteria Marco No. 83: Cazuela Colombiana from Cafe Brazil No. 82: Chicken potpie from Devil's Food No. 81: Sichuan braised beef noodle soup from Zoe Ma Ma No. 80: Larb nua from Taste of Thailand No. 79: Pork shank from Argyll No. 78: Truffo panino from Shangri-La Cafe No. 77: Pig-snout tacos from Guadalajara Authentic Mexican Buffet No. 76: Speck and maple ice cream from Pizzeria Basta No. 75: Tom yum goong from Thai Flavor No. 74: South African black ruff from TAG No. 73: Gumbo from Bistro One No. 72: New England clam chowder from Bittersweet No. 71: Celery and lime popsicle from Spuntino No. 70: Curried split pea soup from Modmarket No. 69: Mais pizza from Pizzeria Locale No. 68: Risotto frutti di mare from Firenze a Tavola No. 67: Frico caldo from Frasca Food & Wine No. 66: Sea scallop and rock shrimp noodle bowl from Bones No. 65: Luther Burger from Crave No. 64: Chongqing Chicken from East Asia Garden No. 63: Bouillabaisse from Deluxe No. 62: Crue fries from D Bar Desserts No. 61: Chili gobi from Jai Ho No. 60: New Mexican eggs Benedict from DJ's Berkley Cafe No. 59: Lamb vindaloo from Cuisine of the Himalayas No. 58: Gazpacho verde from Zolo Grill No. 57: Hama Hama oyster from Jax Fish House-Denver In late 2009, we embarked on a culinary journey that took us through our favorite dishes in the Mile High City -- one hundred, to be exact. Now we're back with round two, counting down (in no particular order) a hundred more of our favorite Denver dishes in a list that, by our imperfect calculations, should be wrapped up...sometime this year. If there's a dish you think we need to try, tell us about it in the comments section below, or shoot us an e-mail at lori.midson@westword.com.

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El Trompito

1540 W. 70th Ave.
Denver, CO 80221

720-540-3483


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