100 Favorite Dishes: Pimento Cheese at Dunbar Kitchen & Tap Room

Creamy, tangy goodness at Dunbar.EXPAND
Creamy, tangy goodness at Dunbar.
Mark Antonation

No. 13: Pimento Cheese Spread at Dunbar Kitchen & Tap Room
Pimento cheese spread is one of those grocery-store guilty pleasures that you reached for as a kid and hid in the shopping cart until it was too late for your mom to notice because the clerk had already rung it up. A tub of the tangy goo made for the perfect snack with Ritz crackers or even plain saltines. If you're from the South, pimento cheese has a slightly more hallowed place at the table; your mother may have even made a fresh batch for the dinner table instead of allowing the industrial stuff to enter her home.

The menu at Dunbar Kitchen & Tap Room, our Best New Bar in the Best of Denver 2015, features a few other Southern inspirations — think hush puppies, St. Louis-style ribs, and shrimp and grits — so the Five Points bar's take on the spread is closer to homemade versions than to commercial brands. Co-owner and chef Charles Wessels starts with Tillamook Cheddar, which gives the spread a sharp bite, mellowed by the sweetness of the peppers.

And here's something your mom never did: This pimento cheese comes with a dollop of bacon-onion jam for a rich, sweet, smoky note that's Southern in spirit, if not in origin. And instead of crackers, the appetizer arrives with thick corners of lightly browned Texas toast — an airy substitute that doesn't stand in the path of pure cheesy pleasure. 

We're continuing to count down the best dishes in the city — from longtime classics that keep us coming back to new additions that have caught our attention. If there's a dish you think we need to try, tell us about it in the comments section, or shoot us an e-mail at cafe@westword.com.

Hungry for more? All the dishes in our 2015 countdown are linked below.

No. 100: Chile Relleno at La Fiesta
No. 99: Gurage Kitfo at Megenagna Ethiopian Restaurant
No. 98: Cochinita Pibil at Work & Class
No. 97: The Greggers Tongue Sandwich at Olive & Finch 
No. 96: Baum Cakes at Glaze by Sasa
No. 95: Goat hot pot from Viet's
No.94: Head cheese from Beast + Bottle
No. 93: Kettle Chips from Amerigo Delicatus
No. 92: Pork Belly Confit at Solera Restaurant and Wine Bar
No. 91: Tacos Campechanos from La Calle Taqueria
No. 90: Biscuits from Denver Biscuit Co.
No. 89: Clams and Chorizo at Gozo
No. 88: Aburi Sushi at Sushi Den and Izakaya Den
No. 87: Kimchi and Sausage Torta at City, O' City
No. 86: Mar y Tierra Molcajete at Paxia
No. 85: Crispy Pork Spare Ribs at Table Top
No. 84: Chips and Dip at Euclid Hall
No. 83: Chile Relleno Burrito at El Taco de Mexico
No. 82: Scallop Crudo at Stoic & Genuine
No. 81: Ceylon Curry Dosa at Khazana
No. 80: The Lambada Torta at La Torteria
No. 79: Pork Bulgogi at Dae Gee
No. 78: the Pulled Pork Pig Pen Sandwich at Boney's
No. 77: IPA Mac & Cheese at Hops & Pie
No. 76: Chiles en Nogada at Chili Verde
No. 75: Udon Noodle Bowl at Bones
No. 74: Cinnamon Rolls at the Duffeyroll Cafe
No. 73: Smoked Turkey Croque-Madame at Acorn
No. 72: Pickled Lake Michigan Perch at Trillium
No. 71: Oysters at Jax Fish House Glendale
No. 70: Venezuelan Tostadas at Empanada Express Grill
No. 69: Tahini Cauliflower from Biker Jim's Gourmet Dogs
No. 68: The Ham and Cheese Tartita from Maria Empanada
No. 67: Ronnie's Favorite from Rosenberg's Bagels and Deli
No. 66: Shoo-fly Pie from the Long i Pie Shop
No. 65: Czech Potato Pancakes at Sobo 151
No. 64: Fried Chicken at the Post Brewing Co.
No. 63: Braised Brisket Sandwich at Masterpiece Delicatessen
No. 62: The Scotch Egg from Argyll Whisky Beer
No. 61: Butternut Squash Ravioli at DiFranco's
No. 60: Sesame Balls at Vinh Xuong Bakery
No. 59: Curry Puffs at Suvipa Thai Food
No. 58: Diavola Pizza at Pizzeria Locale
No. 57: Chorizo Breakfast Stew at DJ's 9th Avenue Cafe
No. 56: The Rare Beast Sandwich at Salt & Grinder
No. 55: 48-Hour Short Ribs at Chop Shop Casual Urban Eatery
No. 54: Marrow Bone Brulee at Mercantile Dining & Provision
No. 53: Prawns and Pork Belly at Blackbelly Market
No. 52: Belgian Waffles from Waffle Up
No. 51: Nashville Hot Chicken at Lou's Food Bar
No. 50: Breakfast Burrito from Chickee's Lil Kitchen 
No. 49: Monkfish and Romanesco at TAG
No. 48: Cabeza Tacos at Taqueria El Trompito
No. 47: Pupusas Revueltas at Pupuseria San Salvador
No. 46: Sesame Pockets at Golden Plate II
No. 45: Tuna Mousse at Cart-Driver
No. 44: Tavern Tots at the Highland Tavern  
No. 43: Carne Asada Fries at North County
No. 42: Pho at Wonderbowl
No. 41: Shredded Bison at Tocabe
No. 40: Nachos al Pastor from Tony Guacamole
No. 39: Prosciutto Pop Tart from Bakin' Bakery
No. 38: Ham and Egg Congee at Onefold
No. 37: Lao Sausage at the Asian Cajun
No. 36: Pan Bagnat at Fuel Cafe 
No. 35: Meatloaf Sandwich at City Bakery Cafe
No. 34: Okonomiyaki at Kobe An
No. 33: Farrotto Piccolo at Basta
No. 32: Fried Gizzards at Catfish King
No. 31: My Wife's Donuts at Osaka Ramen
No. 30: Foie Gras Bonbons at Milk & Honey Bar Kitchen
No. 29: Gnocchi Maison au Canard Fume at Z Cuisine
No. 28: Mysore Thali at Masalaa
No. 27: The Papa Bear at Cub's Q Barbeque
No. 26: Xiaolongbao at Shanghai Kitchen
No. 25: Bake Rice With Porkchop at Hong Kong Cafe
No. 24: A Burger at Bob's Atomic Burger
No. 23: The Emma Farms Wagyu Beef Burger at Edge Restaurant & Bar
N
o. 22: Parma Italia Pizza at Blue Pan Pizza
No. 21: Purple Cow Ice Cream at Little Man Ice Cream
No. 20: Colorado Striped Bass Crudo at Beatrice & Woodsley
No. 19: Mongolian BBQ Duck Buns at Linger
No. 18: Pink Lady Roll at Sushi Sasa
No. 17:
Fried Green Tomatoes at Sassafras American Eatery
No. 16: Deep-fried Cornbread at Sons of Scullery 
No. 15: House-smoked Pulled Pork Sandwich at the Universal
No. 14: Bruschetta at Postino LoHi 

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