100 Favorite Dishes: Pork tenderloin with bread pudding and green split peas from the Wooden Table
No. 51: Pork tenderloin with bread pudding and green split peas from the Wooden Table
Last week, I was sitting around the dinner table with a handful of chefs, all of whom were discussing the great food debate of the moment: Is our obsession with pig waning? Is pork overrated? Is there too much pork belly on plates? After much consideration, the majority ruled in favor of swine, predicting that our infatuation with the prized pig has the same kind of staying power as Elvis Presley. That, perhaps, is overstating it ... unless you consider the pork tenderloin dish at the Wooden Table, where chef Brett Shaheen -- an alum of Frank Bonanno's empire -- governs the kitchen. The pork -- Berkshire -- arrives sliced, fanned and rosy and perfumes the air with pronounced smokiness. And it's simply fantastic. But the pork is just a teaser for what's burrowing beneath. Shaheen pairs the pig with an insanely good bread pudding, porky with ham hocks and studded with apples, and then puddles the plate with green split peas and braised red cabbage, the result of which is a beautifully executed dish that proves why pork continues to reign supreme.
Hungry for more? All the dishes in our countdown are linked below:
No. 94: Seafood soup from Farro
No. 73: Gumbo from Bistro One
No. 69: Mais pizza from Pizzeria Locale
No. 66: Sea scallop and rock shrimp noodle bowl from Bones
In late 2009, we embarked on a culinary journey that took us through our favorite dishes in the Mile High City -- one hundred, to be exact. Now we're back with round two, counting down (in no particular order) a hundred more of our favorite Denver dishes in a list that, by our imperfect calculations, should be wrapped up...sometime this year. If there's a dish you think we need to try, tell us about it in the comments section below, or shoot us an e-mail at email@example.com.
Get the Dining Newsletter
The week's top local food news and events, plus interviews with chefs and restaurant owners, dining tips, and a peek at our print review.