100 Favorite Dishes: Pupusas Revueltas at Pupuseria San Salvador

Good things come in small packages at Pupuseria San Salvador.EXPAND
Good things come in small packages at Pupuseria San Salvador.
Mark Antonation

No. 47: Pupusas Revueltas at Pupuseria San Salvador
4385 South Federal Boulevard, Sheridan
720-327-8146

The Salvadoran hand-formed corn masa pockets known as pupusas at Pupuseria San Salvador are, like the restaurant itself, small and tidy. Unlike the big, sloppy rounds found at many other pupusa joints in town, these are patted into palm-sized disks with precision and care. You may not get big, grill-seared shards of caramelized cheese around the edges, but that's only because the corn masa is well-formed, with no holes or weak spots. That means all the ingredients all stay inside.

For the best mix of ingredients, order pupusas revueltas, which come stuffed with beans, stringy white cheese and chicharron, which unlike Mexican fried pork rind, is actually slow-cooked and finely chopped pork that becomes almost a sauce when blended with the hot beans and cheese. And despite the diminutive diameter of each pupusa, they're fat with fillings, so each bite is packed with pork flavor and cheesy goodness. Once cool enough to pick up, these are great finger food: tear off bites and top with a forkful of curtido — the mildly tangy cabbage slaw perked up with just the right amount of jalapeño slivers. Pupuseria San Salvador's curtido leans more toward sauerkraut than coleslaw, but with enough cooling crunch to counter the molten cheese. And a dunk in the mild salsa roja gives an added burst of tomato to the mix. 

Those expecting the powerful chile punch of Mexican antojitos may be taken aback by the milder Salvadoran snack. These pupusas, though, share the comfort-food power of a classic grilled cheese sandwich, only with tender, grilled cornmeal dough instead of bread. Sealed inside each well-formed little package is enough warming goodness to evoke the same sighs and smiles as any childhood favorite.

In advance of the Best of Denver 2015, we're loading our plates with contenders for the best dishes in the city. And over the next few months, we'll be sharing many of them with you, counting down (in no particular order) one hundred of our favorite dishes before the the Best of Denver 2015 hits the streets on March 26. In the meantime, if there's a dish you think we need to try, tell us about it in the comments section below, or shoot us an e-mail at cafe@westword.com.

Hungry for more? All the dishes in our 2014 countdown are linked below.

No. 100: Chile Relleno at La Fiesta
No. 99: Gurage Kitfo at Megenagna Ethiopian Restaurant
No. 98: Cochinita Pibil at Work & Class
No. 97: The Greggers Tongue Sandwich at Olive & Finch 
No. 96: Baum Cakes at Glaze by Sasa
No. 95: Goat hot pot from Viet's
No.94: Head cheese from Beast + Bottle
No. 93: Kettle Chips from Amerigo Delicatus
No. 92: Pork Belly Confit at Solera Restaurant and Wine Bar
No. 91: Tacos Campechanos from La Calle Taqueria
No. 90: Biscuits from Denver Biscuit Co.
No. 89: Clams and Chorizo at Gozo
No. 88: Aburi Sushi at Sushi Den and Izakaya Den
No. 87: Kimchi and Sausage Torta at City, O' City
No. 86: Mar y Tierra Molcajete at Paxia
No. 85: Crispy Pork Spare Ribs at Table Top
No. 84: Chips and Dip at Euclid Hall
No. 83: Chile Relleno Burrito at El Taco de Mexico
No. 82: Scallop Crudo at Stoic & Genuine
No. 81: Ceylon Curry Dosa at Khazana
No. 80: The Lambada Torta at La Torteria
No. 79: Pork Bulgogi at Dae Gee
No. 78: the Pulled Pork Pig Pen Sandwich at Boney's
No. 77: IPA Mac & Cheese at Hops & Pie
No. 76: Chiles en Nogada at Chili Verde
No. 75: Udon Noodle Bowl at Bones
No. 74: Cinnamon Rolls at the Duffeyroll Cafe
No. 73: Smoked Turkey Croque-Madame at Acorn
No. 72: Pickled Lake Michigan Perch at Trillium
No. 71: Oysters at Jax Fish House Glendale
No. 70: Venezuelan Tostadas at Empanada Express Grill
No. 69: Tahini Cauliflower from Biker Jim's Gourmet Dogs
No. 68: The Ham and Cheese Tartita from Maria Empanada
No. 67: Ronnie's Favorite from Rosenberg's Bagels and Deli
No. 66: Shoo-fly Pie from the Long i Pie Shop
No. 65: Czech Potato Pancakes at Sobo 151
No. 64: Fried Chicken at the Post Brewing Co.
No. 63: Braised Brisket Sandwich at Masterpiece Delicatessen
No. 62: The Scotch Egg from Argyll Whisky Beer
No. 61: Butternut Squash Ravioli at DiFranco's
No. 60: Sesame Balls at Vinh Xuong Bakery
No. 59: Curry Puffs at Suvipa Thai Food
No. 58: Diavola Pizza at Pizzeria Locale
No. 57: Chorizo Breakfast Stew at DJ's 9th Avenue Cafe
No. 56: The Rare Beast Sandwich at Salt & Grinder
No. 55: 48-Hour Short Ribs at Chop Shop Casual Urban Eatery
No. 54: Marrow Bone Brulee at Mercantile Dining & Provision
No. 53: Prawns and Pork Belly at Blackbelly Market
No. 52: Belgian Waffles from Waffle Up
No. 51: Nashville Hot Chicken at Lou's Food Bar
No. 50: Breakfast Burrito from Chickee's Lil Kitchen 
No. 49: Monkfish and Romanesco at TAG
No. 48: Cabeza Tacos at Taqueria El Trompito




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