A beef with Denver Ted's
1308 Pearl Street
Regular cheesesteak: steak, American cheese, onions, bread
$6 for a nine-inch sandwich
It’s not fair to expound on the merits of a sandwich I've eaten after letting myself become so ravenously hungry that I can barely see. Cardboard smeared with Elmer’s Glue would taste amazing in such a situation.
But if the sandwich still doesn’t taste that good? That probably means it just wasn’t. And I’m sorry to say that while the Philly cheesesteak I had from Denver Ted’s filled my stomach, it didn’t fill my heart.
And I had such high hopes for Denver Ted’s, since I have friends who love it and since it's such a hole-in-the-wall place rather than a chain. To keep things simple, I ordered a regular cheesesteak with onions and American cheese. In retrospect, I wish I had ordered Cheez Whiz (“Don’t fear the Whiz!”), which is a cool quirk at Denver Ted’s, because the cheese was the best part of the sandwich. As for the rest: the steak was a little chewy and the bread had a stale taste. The onions were fine.
Still, I have to recommend that everyone in Denver eat a Philly cheesesteak this week in order to help the Tampa Bay Rays symbolically eat the Philadelphia Phillies for lunch during the World Series, which starts tonight. – Jonathan Shikes
For more sandwich reviews, see the Our Weekly Bread archive.
Get the Dining Newsletter
The week's top local food news and events, plus interviews with chefs and restaurant owners, dining tips, and a peek at our print review.