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  • Article

    Z Whiz - This bistro is a beauty.

    Chef Patrick Dupays is in the kitchen. I can see him through the big four-pane window at the end of the line, working a pan with one hand, giving directions with the other -- his fingers loose, his arm moving like a conductor's trying to keep a runaw...

    by Jason Sheehan on November 10, 2005
  • Article

    Cornered - The shiny new Johnson's Corner just ain't what it used to be.

    There was a time when I would've argued that Johnson's Corner (I-25 at exit 254, north of the Berthoud exit) was the perfect diner, better than the Peppermill in Vegas, the State Diner in Ithaca, that joint on Telegraph Road in Detroit where I almost...

    by Jason Sheehan on November 10, 2005
  • Article

    Guavapolitan - Via Italian Restaurant

    How much wood can a woodchuck chuck? When I walked into Via to meet friends for a drink, I immediately noticed two things: wood and smokin' hot guys -- and in that order, surprisingly. Venanzio and Anthony Momo are responsible for both. Owners of Cuc...

    by Nancy Levine on November 10, 2005
  • Article

    University of Wisconsin - Getting an education in libation

    The recent Institute of Drinking Studies excursion to Madison, Wisconsin, had nothing to do with the much-publicized Halloween riots. I swear. We were there on an educational fact-finding mission, looking for ways to turn Denver into an even better d...

    by Patrick Osborn on November 10, 2005
  • Article

    Le Central - Back to basics

    Back in the day -- and I'm talking six months, maybe a year ago -- Le Central had a taste that was all its own. Put three orders of escargot in front of me, three orders of anything in barnaise sauce, three orders of lotte au basilic, and I, with un...

    by Jason Sheehan on November 10, 2005
  • Article

    A Lot to Like - Even when Sabor Latino takes a wrong step, things turn out right.

    The last time I was at Sabor Latino, I heard a recorded pan-flute rendition of the Titanic love theme so sappy that it silenced an entire dining room -- except for the laughter. An order of arepa fell just as flat: The white-corn pancake was so nasty...

    by Jason Sheehan on November 3, 2005
  • Article

    Growing Pains - Divide and conquer at Steak Au Poivre.

    So much news -- good news, bad news, ridiculous news -- keeps coming out of Steak au Poivre (231 Milwaukee Street), I sometimes wonder when they find time to cook. Chefs have come, chefs have gone, a consulting chef has come and will go after the hol...

    by Jason Sheehan on November 3, 2005
  • Article

    Lillet Martini - Z Cuisine

    a c'est bon. Is there anything more charming than finding a quaint French bistro in a neighborhood where you don't expect it? Mais non! A decade ago, any restaurant that dared to open in this part of town had to feature chips and salsa on its menu...

    by Nancy Levine on November 3, 2005
  • Article

    Pub on Pearl - Monday Nght Mania

    Several members of the Institute of Drinking Studies -- all definite throwbacks -- met recently at a very manly and friendly throwback of a tavern, the Pub on Pearl (1101 South Pearl Street). This small bar is nestled on a corner near where Pearl Str...

    by Patrick Osborn on November 3, 2005
  • Article

    Lost in Translation - Milagro Taco Bar is far from the talk of the town.

    I was sitting in the dining room at Milagro Taco Bar scratching hieroglyphs into the mole with my fork: hearts and squiggles, my initials. It was a good mole -- dark and glossy, thickened enough to stick, with a flavor like coffee beans and charcoal ...

    by Jason Sheehan on October 27, 2005
  • Article

    Jar Head - Red-pepper jelly gets canned at Frasca.

    achlan Mackinnon-Patterson is a busy guy. He's chef/owner (along with partner Bobby Stuckey) of Frasca, the restaurant at 1738 Pearl Street in Boulder that's one of the best in Colorado. And one of the busiest: He's running a killer crew in a kitchen...

    by Jason Sheehan on October 27, 2005
  • Article

    Drinking Vicariously Through You - Cricket on the Hill

    Who'd think a shot called Don't Name Your Fucking Kid After Me would lead to a tongue-in-cheek throw-down? After I wrote about that concoction a few weeks ago, I heard from Carl Johansen, the good-natured fellow who says he not only invented the shot...

    by Nancy Levine on October 27, 2005
  • Article

    Applebee's - Finding beauty in the status quo.

    The other night I ducked into Target to get some razors made of a rare metal that dulls after one shave, despite a per-ounce price that's higher than platinum. While struggling through aisles of cheap lingerie that still grab any guy's eye (don't tel...

    by Patrick Osborn on October 27, 2005
  • Article

    Mizuna - Frank Bonanno's star retains its brilliance.

    While my meals at Milagro Taco Bar (see review, page 59) left me with mixed feelings, my opinion about another Frank Bonanno operation remains unwavering. Mizuna was Bonanno's first restaurant (with late partner Doug Fleischmann), and it remains his ...

    by Jason Sheehan on October 27, 2005
  • Article

    Meat and Greet - Bob's steaks a claim in Cherry Creek.

    We argued right up to the front door about how I ought to dress for dinner. What shoes to wear. Jacket or no jacket. Tie or no tie. I'd climbed into the car wearing everything: white button-down and dress slacks, my best tie (meaning the pleasingly m...

    by Jason Sheehan on October 20, 2005
  • Article

    Dog Days - You never sausage a thing.

    A round noon, my phone rings. "Is this Jason Sheehan?" "Yes." "You're the restaurant guy?" "That's me. What can I do for you?" "Man, I don't know if you've been there yet, but I've got to tell you about this..." About this new sushi...

    by Jason Sheehan on October 20, 2005
  • Article

    Black Velvet - Corridor 44

    Only a few weeks ago, I besmirched champagne cocktails, questioning a man's sexuality because he'd ordered a "girl drink." Now, however, I must drink my words, because not only is Corridor 44 the swankiest, most posh and glamorous spot to hit Denver ...

    by Nancy Levine on October 20, 2005
  • Article

    Brix - A run-in with Gulden Dreck -- er, Draak.

    Has anyone seen an escaped monkey? I've been scouring the papers for such information since a night at Brix (3000 East Third Avenue), when the little simian that has plagued periods of my drinking career was on the loose, relieving himself in my mout...

    by Patrick Osborn on October 20, 2005
  • Article

    Mickeys Top Sirloin - Good steak, great price. What's not to like?

    When I stopped by the new, improved Mickey's Top Sirloin for lunch last week (a few months ago, it had moved from its decrepit, decades-old home across the parking lot to a shiny, family-friendly, cookie-cutter space with bright-green corrugated sidi...

    by Jason Sheehan on October 20, 2005
  • Article

    On a Roll - This Fontana Sushi goes its own way.

    Eels and tofu, sweet raw shrimp and tuna head and giant clam -- I eat it all. Flying-fish eggs, as alien to a suburban rust-belt brat as eating asbestos or living on freon and Pixy Stix, are now a regular part of my diet. They get caught in my teeth ...

    by Jason Sheehan on October 13, 2005
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