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  • Article

    Split Decision - Mateo wants to serve good food and cater to a hip crowd -- but it can't do both.

    Concentrating on Mateo's classic food while sitting in Mateo's trendy dining room was like trying to read The Grapes of Wrath in a strip club: Both the food and the setting were worthy of attention, but the combination drove me to distraction. You ...

    by Kyle Wagner on April 11, 2002
  • Article

    The Bite - Barry Fey mouths off.

    The Best of Denver 2002 was a resounding success, at least according to concert promoter Barry Fey, who is always quick to offer feedback. "This time I can't find anything wrong with your food picks," says Fey. "What's up with that?" From steaks to...

    by Kyle Wagner on April 11, 2002
  • Article

    Consumed - Chuck E.'s in Love

    Chuck E. Weiss, one of the coolest cats ever to escape Denver, is back in town to "take care of some business" and visit his mom. But although he's got a new record out, Weiss doesn't want to talk music. No, he wants to jawbone about his other love: ...

    by Marty Jones on April 11, 2002
  • Article

    Check, Please! - Readers give our food critic something to chew on.

    Q: I'd happily patronize restaurants that don't allow smoking. Where are they? A: The easiest way to find Denver's smoke-free eateries is to get a copy of the Smoke-Free Dining Guide from Boulder-based GASP of Colorado (Group to Alleviate Smoking P...

    by Kyle Wagner on April 11, 2002
  • Article

    Mexican, With a Twist - Any way you slice it, Lime is a cut above.

    Denver diners have been waiting for the right twist on Mexican food, and Lime just might be it. Over the last year, a number of eateries have opened that feature either upscale Latin-derived cuisines (Cuban, Peruvian) or upscale Mexican fare, with ...

    by Kyle Wagner on March 28, 2002
  • Article

    The Bite - Check it out!

    Coffee, table, books: Time to wake up and smell the coffee, Starbucks. The brand-spanking-new Schlessman Family Branch Library, at 100 Poplar Street, has a surprise in store for visitors: a full- service coffee bar run by the Baroness Coffee Compa...

    by Kyle Wagner on March 28, 2002
  • Article

    Consumed - Tasteful Profiling

    Living in a rapidly improving neighborhood has its pluses and minuses. In the Old San Rafael section of central Denver -- my stamping grounds -- the upside includes increasing property values, decreasing crime and fewer addicts smoking crack beneath ...

    by Marty Jones on March 28, 2002
  • Article

    Check, Please! - Readers give our food critic something to chew on.

    Q: I'm a big Thai fan. I know you love Thai Bistro, but where else can I get top Thai food? A: I do have a fondness for the superb Thai fare at Thai Bistro (5924 South Kipling Street, Littleton, 720-981-7600), but I also love to Thai one on at the ...

    by Kyle Wagner on March 28, 2002
  • Article

    Stars Trek - I'd walk a mile -- and then some -- for a meal at the Tennessee Pass Cookhouse.

    Recently I've had to face the fact that I'm never going to climb Everest. First, there's the problem of my day job, which doesn't exactly allow for the time commitment -- or, for that matter, the tens of thousands of dollars needed to have a guide ...

    by Kyle Wagner on March 21, 2002
  • Article

    The Bite - Toque Talk

    I'd walk several miles to eat more of Sean Kelly's food, so it comes as good news that his Clair de Lune, at 1313 East Sixth Avenue (in the space that was Merano), will be open soon. "I'm shooting for the first week of April," Kelly says. "I don't ha...

    by Kyle Wagner on March 21, 2002
  • Article

    Food Fetishes - Rise and Shine

    In the pleasant Cook Street kitchen, Marilyn Kakudo is instructing a handful of us in how to make bread. We all have different reasons for wanting to learn. One student plans to buy and operate a sandwich cart on the 16th Street Mall. She won't be...

    by Juliet Wittman on March 21, 2002
  • Article

    Check, Please! - Readers give our food critic something to chew on.

    Q: I am getting married in June. Where should I get a wedding cake? A: If I were getting married, I'd head over to Gateaux (1160 Speer Boulevard, 303-376-0070), which makes drop-dead stunning cakes that also taste great. And at a friend's recent we...

    by Kyle Wagner on March 21, 2002
  • Article

    Spice of Life - At Masalaa, the meat of the matter is that meat doesn't matter.

    Lentils may be good for you, but they taste like the dried paste from a kindergartner's Popsicle-stick project. They sort of taste like the Popsicle sticks, too. Since lentils are a staple of Indian food, resourceful Indian cooks long ago figured o...

    by Kyle Wagner on March 14, 2002
  • Article

    The Bite - Smokin' deals

    Smokin' to the left, smokin' to the right: It's getting harder and harder to find a restaurant that still welcomes smokers -- even the very casual Benny's Restaurant y Cantina (301 East Seventh Avenue) considered taking itself off the list of possibi...

    by Kyle Wagner on March 14, 2002
  • Article

    Consumed - Honey Do

    Ask any craft brewer today how he or she got started, and the answer will probably point to Charlie Papazian and his book, Joy of Homebrewing. Twenty-some years ago, Papazian founded the Boulder-based American Homebrewers Association and helped launc...

    by Marty Jones on March 14, 2002
  • Article

    Check, Please! - Readers give our food critic something to chew on.

    Q: Do you have any suggestions for a special dinner in the Vail/Beaver Creek/Edwards area? We've already done Sweet Basil, the Bristol at Arrowhead, Zino's, Larkspur and Mirabelle. So we're willing to pay the Vail Valley price of admission. A: The ...

    by Kyle Wagner on March 14, 2002
  • Article

    There's No Place Like Home - Kate's at 35th Avenue is two, two, two restaurants in one.

    Lynn Smith's to-do list is a little longer than most. She's a mom; she runs a restaurant; she also goes to graduate school. "Some days I wonder, 'What was I thinking?'" Smith says. "But most days I love it. I'm always being challenged, and so far, ...

    by Kyle Wagner on March 7, 2002
  • Article

    2nd Helping - Sacre Bleu makes good on its divine pedigree.

    Between its answering-machine message, its local advertising and the way staff members drop the news every chance they get, Sacre Bleu wants to make it clear that the place is under new ownership and new management. And -- mon Dieu! -- that seems to ...

    by Kyle Wagner on March 7, 2002
  • Article

    The Bite - A deli piles it on with its NY-style pastrami.

    The lunch bunch: Kate's at 35th Avenue (see review above) offers a nice, cozy lunchtime repast -- but sometimes nothing will do but a fat pastrami sandwich on rye, served in a noisy, crowded deli evocative of New York City. In which case, run, don't ...

    by Kyle Wagner on March 7, 2002
  • Article

    Check, Please! - Readers give our food critic something to chew on.

    Q: I'm a big prime-rib fan. Can you give me a list of places that do it well? A: What we call prime rib is actually a boneless cut from the super-tender eye muscle of a steer's primal rib, also known as the ribeye roast. The name may have come from...

    by Kyle Wagner on March 7, 2002
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From the Print Edition

Sugarmill could become a real sweet spot in the Ballpark neigbhorhood

Sugarmill has been on deck in the Ballpark neighborhood since December 2013, and the sweets spot -- a collaboration between pastry chef Noah French and restaurateur Troy Guard -- definitely… More >>

Braun Taphaus & Grille: Can the Bar-On family give this place a sporting chance?

This week, Gretchen Kurtz ventured to Arvada, to Braun Taphaus & Grille, which the Bar-On family (Udi's) opened last November as a not-so-typical sports bar, one whose menu is flavored… More >>

Lower48 Kitchen raises the bar in Denver

This week, Gretchen Kurtz reviews our 2014 winner for Best New Restaurant: Lower48 Kitchen, now serving in the Ballpark neighborhood. Read her review, now posted on the Cafe Society blog,… More >>

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