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  • Article

    The Real Relleno

    The smiling man in the photograph on the wall at the Brewery Bar II is one George Goldberg, and the reason he's smiling is that on January 7, 1994, he ate thirteen bowls of the local green chile for lunch. That amounts to five quarts of this time-hon...

    by Bill Gallo on August 12, 1999
  • Article

    For Pete's Sake

    When Pete Petrides Jr. was growing up, Denver's dining scene was better than television. "I would go over to my dad's restaurant and just sit and watch people, listen to their stories," Petrides says. "This was back in the Sixties, and Colfax Avenue ...

    by Kyle Wagner on August 12, 1999
  • Article

    Mouthing Off

    Goin' to the Roadhouse: There's no drink at Spanky's Roadhouse (1800 East Evans Avenue) called the "Spanky Swank Me," but the fifteen-year-old perennial DU hangout still serves one of the best milkshakes ($3.25) in town--Oreo fans will appreciate the...

    by Kyle Wagner on August 5, 1999
  • Article

    A Family Affair

    NoNo's Cafe just celebrated its third birthday, and although the restaurant is growing up, it hasn't grown away from its family-friendly roots. From the start, despite its location in a strip mall, owners Brian and Sonda Brewster wanted to make ...

    by Kyle Wagner on August 5, 1999
  • Article

    No Soft Sell

    Restaurants have always been entertaining, even without the "concepts." Nowhere else, for example, could you enjoy the delicious irony of a wave of water crashing down from a leaky awning over the group of people who founded Colorado's Ocean Jour...

    by Kyle Wagner on August 5, 1999
  • Article

    Mouthing Off

    The inn crowd: The Schmoozers sign that had hung over the space at 4400 East Eighth Avenue has disappeared, replaced by one proclaiming that the place is once again The College Inn, the name it had gone by since the Fifties. But while that identity c...

    by Kyle Wagner on July 29, 1999
  • Article

    Raising the Bar

    Is Cafe Cero a bar, or is it a restaurant? After more than a year in business, Lynne Ida still can't answer that question. "Okay, this definitely is not the place to come for a full-blown menu and sit-down experience," she ventures. "Between 4 an...

    by Kyle Wagner on July 29, 1999
  • Article

    The Pita Principle

    Ali Awada left his native Lebanon and came to Colorado eleven years ago, when his brother married a woman from Denver. "My family has restaurants in Lebanon, but when I moved here I went to work as a financier for American Express," Awada explains. "...

    by Kyle Wagner on July 22, 1999
  • Article

    Mouthing Off

    A bite of the big Apple: Chef Matt Selby of Vesta Dipping Grill, at 1822 Blake Street, is just back from a stint at New York's Gramercy Tavern. Sent there by Vesta owner Josh Wolkon to work with Gramercy owner Danny Meyer and chef Tom Colicchio in or...

    by Kyle Wagner on July 22, 1999
  • Article

    The Latest Buzz

    Since The Hornet opened in 1996, the restaurant has been busier than the proverbial bee--but the food hasn't always gotten good buzz ("The Green Hornet," June 6, 1996). Initially, the most appealing thing about the place was the cavernous space,...

    by Kyle Wagner on July 15, 1999
  • Article

    Mouthing Off

    Mouth of the border: For years, Cafe Brazil (see review above) was one of just a handful of South American spots in town, but now we're about to get more cuisine from countries far south of the border. This fall, the old home of Chives, at 1120 East ...

    by Kyle Wagner on July 15, 1999
  • Article

    Jungle Gem

    When Tony Zarlenga first spotted Marla Maria Diaz, they were both on vacation in Greece. "I was by myself, and I noticed this girl on the other side of the boat who was laughing and having a good time," he remembers. "She had a wonderful smile, and I...

    by Kyle Wagner on July 15, 1999
  • Article

    No Day at the Beach

    From the start, the concept seemed fishy. An all-you-can-eat sushi spread sounds promising for about three seconds--until you start thinking about just how long that raw fish has to sit out there under those bright lights before everyone has eaten hi...

    by Kyle Wagner on July 8, 1999
  • Article

    Mouthing Off

    Bested of Denver: I've been involved with the last six Best of Denver issues (there have been sixteen altogether), and the June 24 edition was the toughest yet. Yes, there are more restaurants here than when I started, but that doesn't mean there are...

    by Kyle Wagner on July 8, 1999
  • Article

    Hut Stuff!

    When your cardiologist isn't looking, motor down to the Bamboo Hut on Larimer Street, slip onto a bar stool and order a big bowl of green chile. But before devouring this masterpiece, drop five or six crunchy nuggets from your side order of chicharro...

    by Bill Gallo on July 8, 1999
  • Article

    Mouthing Off

    Clam up: Here's a truly Italian dish that just made its way onto the menu at Panzano (see review this page), and while I didn't try it in the restaurant, it turned out beautifully at home. Panzano's Clams With Prosciutto, Leeks, Tomatoes and Sherry...

    by Kyle Wagner on July 1, 1999
  • Article

    Bread Alert

    My two young daughters and I were playing ladies who lunch the other day when the four-year-old suddenly pointed at what was obviously a hard-as-a-brick loaf of bread in the window next to our table. "Can we eat that?" she asked. "No," I said. "It's ...

    by Kyle Wagner on July 1, 1999
  • Article

    Big Talker

    Monaghan's Tavern prides itself on Big. It's home to the Monster Beer (huge), the Monster Burger (not so huge) and--on Wednesday nights--the Monster T-Bone Steak (huger than some, smaller than others). This neighborhood bar is also Big on its own his...

    by Bill Gallo on June 17, 1999
  • Article

    Mouthing Off

    Singing the blues: The music was great at last weekend's Denver Blues and Bones Festival, but many barbecue fans have a bone to pick with the organizers. Although the event included a two-day barbecue championship, with contestants ranging from mom-a...

    by Kyle Wagner on June 17, 1999
  • Article

    Sauced Horizons

    The secret's in the sauce. Without it, much of the assorted Asian cuisines would be little more than slightly undercooked vegetables and thin slivers of stir-fried meat. The right sauce, though, can transform straightforward ingredients into such...

    by Kyle Wagner on June 17, 1999
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