A year ago, after a series of lackluster meals at Barolo Grill, I begrudgingly paid a $200 tab and doubted that I'd ever return, concluding that Blair Taylor's iconic restaurant was past its prime. "Barolo Grill," I wrote, "needs to try a little harder to be Barolo Grill."
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Not long after I'd reviewed the restaurant, though, things began to change. Most notably, longtime executive chef Brian Laird left the kitchen, and Darrel Truett, a seven-year member of the staff, was put in charge. At the same time Truett was tweaking the menu, Taylor was updating the interior of Barolo.
So as Barolo prepares to start its third decade, I decided to give the legendary restaurant another chance. A few weeks ago, I returned to Barolo to see whether the chef change had injected new life into the place. And after eating my way through the revived board over a couple of meals, I had my answer.