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Summer-pea agnolotti: That's just one of the dishes full of big flavors coming out of the kitchen at Bistro Barbes, the tiny restaurant that chef-owner Jon Robbins opened this past spring. Six pillows of fresh pasta arrived bathed in sauce the color of early-morning sunshine, described on the menu as tarragon-carrot beurre blanc, but far more subtle than it sounded. Once you hear Robbins's nickname, you understand what made that sauce so special. "People spread around restaurants that were concentrated on the Seventh Avenue corner for a while all know me as 'Beurre Blanc,'" says Robbins, who made his share of the rich emulsion at Mizuna, where he spent five years, most recently as chef de cuisine. "I'll answer to it without any hesitation, and if someone yells 'Beurre Blanc' from across the street, I'll look up." And you'll want to look up his new place after reading Gretchen Kurtz's review of Bistro Barbes, now posted on Cafe Society.